The Basics


Laminate Flooring Types


Laminate Flooring History


How Laminate Flooring is Made


Is Laminate Right For Me?


About Laminate Flooring


Buying Help


Laminate Buying Checklist


Laminate Flooring Buying Guide


Installation & Care


How to Install Laminate Flooring


How to Care For Laminate Floors


Laminate: Pro or DIY?


Laminate Resources


Laminate Flooring Glossary


Frequently Asked Questions about Laminate Floors


Laminate Flooring DIY Videos



Laminate Flooring Types

Since the lamination process simply is the fusing together of two or more types of materials, and sealing them, the world of laminate flooring is full of choices. Wood, stone and tile are some of the most popular uses for lamination. Any type of grain and color of wood or layout of stone or tile can be captured, laminated and split into easily-assembled planks from which you can create a floor. The sky is the limit, sometimes making it difficult for consumers to settle on one choice.

Here’s one way to think about laminates—to divide them into different types and to try and settle on which type of laminate floor will work best for your project.

Installation Types

You can divide laminate into installation categories and you might want to select your laminate this way, ensuring you pick a floor with the kind of installation you prefer:

  • Glueless-Click. Over two-thirds of today’s laminates fall under this easy-to-install, glueless click-lock category.
    • chestnut pro 1000 300x199 Laminate Flooring Types

      Laminate Flooring with Underpad Attached

      Note: some laminate floors come with a pre-attached underpad, making installation even quicker and easier. Laminate floors without a pre-attached underpad often require that an underpad be laid down prior to installation of the laminate floor to provide a level of cushion and sound absorption. Additionally, if the laminate floor is being installed on or below grade, or in an area subject to moisture, a separate thin plastic underlayment will need to be laid down prior to installation of the laminate floor to provide a moisture barrier (aka vapor barrier). This needs to be done whether the laminate floor has a pre-attached underpad or not.

  • Glued Laminate. You’ll need to glue the joints together. While this makes for a very strong floor once installed, installation cost and time is higher than with a glueless-click.
  • Pre-Glued. Here, the joints have a glue already applied to them, but may need to be moistened to activate the glue before you join them together.

Surface Types

You might want to pick your floor simply based on what the surface will look like. As we’ve said before, laminates are always evolving. Where there once was one basic surface to choose from, now there are many.

  • Smooth. A plain finish just like a layer of varnish you’d associate with hardwood. Sometimes you can choose between high, medium and low gloss finishes.
  • Embossed and/or Textured. Some laminates come with a textured finish. Regular embossing isn’t an exact match up with the grooves of the printed grain but does fool the eye into seeing a surface grain.
  • red maple angle 1000 150x150 Laminate Flooring Types

    Hand Scraped Laminate Floor

    Distressed/Hand scraped. Hand scraped laminate flooring is now available—a process that up until recently was reserved only for engineered or solid hardwood floors. This process adds an antiqued look to your laminate floor.

  • Embossed in Registration. This type of embossing matches the grain of the wood exactly for the most authentic embossed look.
  • Keep an eye out for new laminate innovations, they’re happening all the time.

AC Rating

For those who look for durability as a way to decide on a laminate product, the AC rating is an ideal guide. Use it to check your expected usage, or foot traffic, against what the floor was built to withstand. AC stands for Abrasion Class and an impartial 3rd party has set the standard for 5 different categories of use and durability.

ac ratings Laminate Flooring Types

Laminate Floor AC Ratings

AC1 Moderate Residential. Built to withstand only light residential use. Suitable for closets or bedrooms.

AC2 General Residential. Built for moderate foot traffic. Suitable in residential spaces that don’t see a tremendous amount of wear and tear like dining rooms or living rooms.

AC3 Heavy Residential/Moderate Commercial. Built for all kinds of residential use including high–traffic rooms and even commercial spaces that have light traffic like offices without off-street traffic and hotel rooms.

AC4 General Commercial. Built to withstand every kind of residential use as well as more heavily trafficked commercial spaces that have off-street traffic like offices, cafes, and boutiques.

AC5 Heavy Commercial. Built for the busiest commercial uses and high–traffic spaces like department stores and government buildings.

As a general rule of thumb, the higher the AC Rating, the higher the price.

Related posts:

  1. Laminate Flooring AC Ratings
  2. About Laminate Flooring
  3. Is Laminate Right For Me?

This Learning Center belongs to you. We invite you to contribute to it.

Have you got a question about what you've read here? Tell us about in the comments section. 

If you're an expert in the field, and see something that is inaccurate, tell us, and we'll make the correction. 

Also, if you think there is important information that is absent from any of these articles, please let us know!

{ 19 comments… read them below or add one }

CLAUDIA FARRIS May 27, 2010 at 3:24 pm

do you need the underlayment if the floor is above grade?

Rob Jones May 27, 2010 at 3:31 pm

Underlayment is a good idea no matter where you’re laying down your laminate floor. It does more than protect your flooring from moisture. Underlayment also reduces the sound of footfalls, which can occur in the minute space between your floor and your subfloor. Also, underlay can help to even out the installation, where slight level variance is common.

If you’re looking to save a bit of time, there are types of laminate floors that come with an underlay layer attached.

Thanks for your question!

H. Emmons September 12, 2010 at 11:25 pm

Dear Sirs,

My laminate floor was in stalled prior to the development of “waxed edges”for water proofing. The edges are beveled. What can I do to help waterproof these edges and the groove between each plank? Is there a way to suitably wax the exposed edges now. Or is there something else to do to make these exposed areas waterproof?

Thanking you for your help and kind consideration,

Sincerely,

Helen Emmons

Rob Jones September 16, 2010 at 5:35 pm

Hi Helen
To simply answer your question no, there really isn’t anything or type of wax that you can add that’s going to make a difference. You want to stay away from adding any kind of wax to your floor as this may damage the floor rather then protect it. I would say the best way to address your concern would be to add area rugs and door mats in high moisture areas and this will help minimize any water damage that may occur.

I hope this answers your question.

Shagufta December 11, 2010 at 6:59 pm

Hi
What is the best type of laminate to buy? Some quote 7mm or 6mm. Is getting the thicker one the betterand is that the thickness of the actual laminate? I am confused and have looked at engineered wood aswell, because my understanding of laminate was that an actual thin layer of wood is applied on top. However I’m not sure I like the idea that it’s just a photocopy of a wood effect on paper.

diane December 20, 2010 at 8:08 pm

The new flooring in my apartment has ridges that are making it hard to clean with a vacuum, or broom.
Winter gravel is catching in the ridges along with any spills, or breakage. I am a senior and it is hard on feet and legs to have ridges. Cleaning takes more than a normal effort and I am feeling it.

I suggest strongly that seniors do NOT get flooring with ridges, or texture. The smooth flooring is ideal and is just as nice looking. I grew up wth real hard wood floors and there were no ridges like this.
The look is the same when smooth and durability a lot better since scratches from sand, broken glass, or any gritty material are easier to deal with. Even picking up a needle, or pin, is difficult as they hide in the crevices.

I need a new cleaning system for this and Swiffer- type cleaning is costly and environmentally unfriendly.
I have suggested to the Board that in our senior apartments…smooth is superior.

I know wax is not good, or necessary, so warm water and ? …. soap will hide in the crevices too.
Since this floor is glued on a steam mop won’t work well either. My new stick vacuum is not helping much.

When people move out, they are putting this kind of flooring in and taking out the rugs which are dusty and hold bacteria. I will be getting a small non-slip rug for the entrance.

Soooo, please can you offer ideas for cleaning ridged laminate flooring? My back will thank you, and so will I.

D. Trollope

James Komenda January 11, 2011 at 9:04 pm

Diane,

Thanks for getting in touch. From what I am reading it would appear the flooring you have has pronounced bevelled edges, in which case it will collect more dust, dirt etc.

The best method of maintence for this type of flooring would be diligent sweeping to remove the dust / dirt etc. In terms of cleaning the product you want to use a lightly damp cloth / mop using only Water to clean the product. Cleaning solutions often have harsh chemicals which can negatively affect the appearance of the flooring.

James Komenda January 11, 2011 at 9:26 pm

Thanks for getting in touch.

When it comes to gauging the quality of a laminate floor, you want to first look at the AC rating of the flooring. Laminate floors will come with an AC Rating of anywhere from 1 -5. AC – 3 is set for residential settings with high foot volume traffic, AC -4 for light commercial, and AC – 5 more for heavy commercial applications.

The thickness of a plank does not necessarily relate to is durabilty. For example, you can have an 8mm AC -5 and a 12mm AC – 1. However, one of the benefits of going with a thicker laminate is the amount of sound transference that will go through the plank. The thicker the laminate, the more HDF (High Density Fibre) core it has, the less the sound transference through the plank.

Please note that lamiante is not an engineered hardwood. It is a synthetic product meant to duplicate the appearance of a natural product. Engineered Hardwood has a top wear layer or veneer of natural product.

Lynn February 22, 2011 at 3:17 am

I am looking for a wide width lamiante floor. Can you tell me about widths?

Rachel May 28, 2011 at 2:32 am

Is a laminated floor going to be durable for a motorised wheel chair going over it?

tom gaines October 27, 2011 at 2:13 pm

Do you have a laminate floor with real wood veneer as the top layer? Thanks, Tom Gaines

tom gaines October 27, 2011 at 2:15 pm

I am looking for a laminate floor that has a real wood veneer not a photo surface. Gom

tom gaines October 27, 2011 at 2:16 pm

Do you have a laminate floor that has a real wood veneer on top layer.? Tom

tom gaines October 27, 2011 at 2:17 pm

I want to buy a wood laminate floor that has a real not a photo surface.

Gary Sandur October 27, 2011 at 3:29 pm

Hi there,
The type of floor you would want to look at is engineered hardwood flooring. There is no product out there that is a laminate with real wood on top.

Mary G. November 28, 2011 at 12:52 am

I have been looking at flooring and I do NOT like the flooring where there is a ‘groove’ where cut between the boards. I like the ones where it is smooth but slightly indented between the boards. What is the description for that kind of connection between the boards? Is that what beveled means? If not, how do I know that this is the way the boards go together with only one sample?

Thanks for your help with educating me.

Kathie December 16, 2011 at 10:36 pm

Hi – anyone have Pergo Select James River Pecan? It is dicontinued and I cant find it anywhere. We need 300 sq feet. Thanks so much!

jessie neely February 5, 2012 at 9:23 pm

was looking for some lamanate flooring with the lock together no glue.also could you please tell me the differance between the 6 thru 12 mm flooring. is the 12 bigger or wider than the 6 or the other way around. thanks, jessie

Gary Sandur February 6, 2012 at 6:23 pm

Hi Jessie,
There are couple things that are diffence in the 12 mm and 6mm floors. You want to look at the AC rating (duribility rating) for the floors. Some 6mm will be AC3 and some will be AC3, where as 12mm floors are typically AC3 rated. The only other difference is sound transference, the 12mm floor will dampen sound more than the 6mm stickly be cause of thickness.

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